TheNaturePlanet

When novice growers start planting cherry tomatoes, they all have a question: "Do cherry tomatoes need their side branches removed? Why do my tomato seedlings grow lush and green in large clusters, but bear few fruits and the fruits are small?" Today, we will talk about the key techniques of "removing the side branches of cherry tomatoes". Learning these techniques can double the yield of your tomatoes!

First, let's clarify a key point: All cherry tomatoes need their side branches removed, whether you are planting them in pots on the balcony, in the vegetable garden, or in a greenhouse! Cherry tomatoes are naturally "experts at branching". Side branches will continuously emerge from the axils of the leaves (the angle between the leaves and the main stem). If you let these side branches grow freely, they will absorb nutrients like "nutrient thieves", ultimately causing the main stem to be thin and weak, with fewer flowers and a low fruit setting rate. The leaves will also be layered, blocking sunlight and preventing good ventilation. This makes the plants particularly prone to diseases such as gray mold and powdery mildew. Moreover, the side branches will grow into "small saplings" on their own. Not only does this waste space, but it is also troublesome to take care of.

After explaining why side branches must be removed, let's talk about the prime time for removing side branches. There are mainly three stages of removing side branches, and each stage has different points to note.

The first stage is the seedling stage, which is the first pruning after transplanting. Novice growers must pay attention! When the small seedlings have 5 to 6 true leaves and are transplanted into pots or the ground, small side buds about 1 to 2 centimeters long will quietly emerge from the leaf axils. At this time, don't be reluctant. Gently pinch off the side buds with your fingers to concentrate the nutrients on making the main stem grow taller, which can lay a good foundation for subsequent flowering. However, be careful! Don't prune when the seedlings are too small. For example, don't be in a hurry to prune when the seedlings have just sprouted. Wait until at least 4 true leaves have grown before operating.

The second stage is the growth stage, which is the "critical period" for removing side branches! When the side branches are as long as an index finger (5 to 10 centimeters) and have not hardened (lignified), it is most appropriate to cut them off directly with scissors or break them off by hand. When operating at this time, the wounds are small and heal quickly, and it can also prevent the side branches from "secretly" consuming a large amount of nutrients. If you are lazy and wait until the side branches are more than 20 centimeters long, not only will they "compete for nutrients" with the main stem, but after cutting, there will be large wounds on the main stem, making it particularly prone to infection by pathogens.

The third stage is the fruiting stage, and at this time, the "ineffective side branches" need to be cleaned up at any time. When the cherry tomatoes start to bear fruit and the fruits are the size of small grapes, we should focus on observing. Keep 2 to 3 strong side branches on the main stem, and these side branches can serve as future fruiting branches. Then, cut off all the side branches that block the sunlight to the fruits, are at the bottom of the plant (prone to getting infected when close to the ground), and grow inward (affecting ventilation). However, when removing side branches during the fruiting stage, be "gentle". Don't damage the swelling fruits and the inflorescences next to them!

After talking about the time, next, I will teach you step by step how to operate specifically. Remember these three steps to ensure that you won't make mistakes!

First, you need to prepare the tools: sharp gardening scissors (for novices, curved scissors are recommended as they are easier to operate), disposable gloves (to avoid allergic reactions when the juice gets on your hands), and carbendazim powder or wood ash (to disinfect the wounds after cutting).

Then, here are the operation steps: The first step is to identify the position of the side branches. The side branches must grow in the "angle between the leaves and the main stem" and grow obliquely upward at a 45-degree angle. The inflorescences grow vertically from the top of the main stem or the leaf axils. Don't cut the wrong ones! The second step is to prune close to the base. Cut at a distance of 0.5 centimeters from the root of the side branch and leave a small stump to prevent the wound from getting infected. Don't pull it hard! If the side branch is very thin, you can also pinch the base with your thumb and index finger and gently bend it to the side. You will hear a "snap" and it will break. The third step is to disinfect the wound. After cutting each plant, wipe the scissors with an alcohol cotton pad (to avoid the spread of pathogens). After cutting all the side branches, dip a cotton swab in carbendazim powder and apply it to the wound. For friends who are planting on the balcony, you can also sprinkle some cigarette ash, which is both disinfected and convenient.

Finally, a reminder: If you are planting in pots on the balcony and the space is relatively small, you should "prune lightly and check frequently". Focus on cutting off the side branches below 10 centimeters at the bottom, because these side branches are prone to rot when close to the ground. Then, keep 2 to 3 strong side branches in the middle and upper parts to make the plant take on a "Y shape" or a "triangle shape", which is both well-ventilated and looks nice. It is recommended to check once every 10 days and pinch off the newly emerging side branches in a timely manner. If you are also planting cherry tomatoes, quickly check if there are any side branches on your seedlings that are "stealing nutrients". It's still not too late to start pruning now!