TheNaturePlanet

I believe many friends who grow Phalaenopsis have encountered the annoying problem of root rot after repotting. They intended to provide the plant with a comfortable new environment, but unexpectedly, the root system went wrong. It's really distressing to watch the originally vibrant Phalaenopsis gradually wilt. In fact, as long as you handle it in time and adjust the maintenance methods, the Phalaenopsis can mostly recover. Here are the specific operations in detail, which are especially suitable for novice friends who have just started caring for Phalaenopsis.


### I. Steps for Treating Root Rot: Saving the Damaged Root System in Three Steps
The core of dealing with root rot is "removing rotten roots, eliminating bacteria, and repotting stably". Each step must be operated carefully to avoid secondary damage to the plant.

1. **Removing from the Pot and Cleaning: Gently Peeling and Precisely Pruning Roots**
Take the Phalaenopsis out of the original pot gently, being careful not to pull the root system hard. If the original pot uses sphagnum moss, you can first soak it with water to soften it and then peel it off slowly. If it uses soil or other growing media, you also need to carefully remove the old media attached to the roots to expose the complete root system. Then observe the state of the root system, use disinfected scissors to trim the rotten, sticky, and hollow roots one by one until the healthy parts, and be sure to retain the lignified main roots, which are the "foundation" for the plant's recovery. Avoid excessive pruning that results in too few roots.

2. **Disinfection and Soaking: Sterilizing and Promoting New Growth, Double Protection**
After pruning, the plant cannot be repotted directly; the root system needs to be "disinfected and sterilized" first. Prepare a solution of carbendazim or potassium permanganate, put the root system into the solution, and soak for 20-30 minutes to completely kill the remaining bacteria. After disinfection, take out the plant and place it in a ventilated and cool place to dry the wounds. If you want new roots to grow faster, you can soak them in a rooting agent solution for another 20 minutes to "help" the root system germinate new fibrous roots.

3. **Repotting: Choosing the Right Pot and Media, with Appropriate Tightness**
Phalaenopsis likes good air permeability, so the preferred pot is a special orchid pot. If not available, a perforated clay pot or plastic pot can be used instead. Before repotting, pad a layer of volcanic rocks or broken bark at the bottom of the pot to enhance drainage and prevent root rot due to water accumulation later. Then take new sphagnum moss, soak it in boiling water, wring it out, and soak it in a carbendazim solution for disinfection. Then gently wrap the root system with the sphagnum moss, being careful not to wrap it too tightly to leave breathing space for the roots. Put the plant wrapped with sphagnum moss into the pot, fill the gaps with a small amount of sphagnum moss, and press gently to fix it. The key is not to bury the base of the plant, otherwise, the base is easy to rot due to stuffiness.


### II. Key Points for Post-Repotting Maintenance: Environmental Adaptation is the Key to Recovery
The maintenance after repotting directly determines whether the Phalaenopsis can "take root in the new pot". The focus is to control watering, light, temperature, and humidity to create a mild recovery environment for the root system.

- **Water Control: "Water Only When Dry", Suspend Fertilization**
Before new roots grow, the growing medium only needs to be kept in a "slightly moist" state. The judgment standard is: when the surface of the sphagnum moss turns white and there is no moisture when gently squeezed, water slowly along the edge of the pot with clear water or use the "pot immersion method". Never allow water to accumulate at the roots. At this stage, the plant's root system is weak and cannot absorb nutrients, so fertilization must be suspended; otherwise, it will increase the burden on the root system and lead to root rot again.

- **Light: Avoid Direct Exposure, Gradual Transition**
Phalaenopsis is afraid of direct strong light. After repotting, first place it in a bright place with scattered light to let the plant adapt to the new environment. If exposed to direct sunlight at this time, it is easy to cause leaf burns and root water loss. When new roots are observed to germinate, gradually increase the light intensity. For example, let the plant receive 1-2 hours of soft sunlight every morning and evening to help the leaves perform photosynthesis and promote growth.

- **Environment: Suitable Temperature and Humidity, Regular Ventilation**
The most suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis recovery is 20-30℃. Temperatures below 15℃ or above 35℃ will affect root activity. Keep warm in winter and provide shade to cool down in summer. The air humidity is best kept at 50%-80%. If the indoor air is dry, place a basin of clear water around the flowerpot or spray water into the air with a sprayer. At the same time, ventilate regularly, open windows for 1-2 hours every day to keep air circulation and reduce the growth of bacteria. If new diseased roots are found, they must be cut off in time, and the roots should be irrigated with a bactericidal solution to prevent the spread of diseases.


### III. Special Case: Severe Root Rot
Adopt the "bare root method": remove all growing media, expose the root system to the air, water a small amount after the sphagnum moss turns white and the roots turn grayish white, and cooperate with proper light to promote the plant to take root in the new pot.

Note: Disinfection tools and growing media can use carbendazim, potassium permanganate, etc. Wear gloves during operation to avoid the liquid from contacting the skin.